Directory:
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Designers:
(1985-ss14) Ann Demeulemeester
(fw14-fw21) Sébastien Meunier
(ss22-fw22) Ghost team with Ann involved
(Fw23) Ludovic de Saint Sernin (Bye)
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Authentication:
Simple with Ann Demeulemeester. Since the brand has predominantly stayed underground until now, fakes are very rare and theres a 99% chance that the piece is authentic. As long as her name is spelt right (seen some fakes butchering her name with smth like Ann Demelemeulemmester) and nothing is fishy with the label or washtag, i would say its good. Try sticking to older pieces or date the piece first before you buy it. Heres how ↓
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Dating the Collection:
Have label tag:
Pay attention to the first 2-4 numbers according to this chart
Theres not much fundamental change to the coding system
First two digits (first only if pre 2005) indicate year, so 08 would be 2008 and 11 would be 201.
Then, the last digit (a 0 was added after fw14) woud either be 1 or 2, which indicates a spring or fall collection respectively.
So
081 would be Spring 2008
1902 would be Fall 2019.
Somewhere around 2005 the tags were switched from a one side reflective cardboard to matte black cardboard. This is our leather jacket from fw04 compared with a tag from 2008.
Front: 
Back: 
Care tags: 
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No label tag (The hard way) :
Comparing the changes in labels and composition tags:
1985-SS87
FW87
SS90
SS91-SS02
FW02-FW04
SS05-SS06
FW06-SS14
Fw14 onwards
Be prepared to go thru collections again and again, and cross checking footage with photos, will be a hard process.
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Notes:
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Small tag appeared around 2000/2001used till today on tees and accessories
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White tags are commonly used on items that are predominantly white from early 2010s
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Non embroidered labels appeared around spring 2009 and used for menswear
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Menswear are indicated by SML sizes while woman’s use Italy sizings.
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Ann D uses the same manufacturer as tom ford gucci. So they share a few similarities.
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Most Ann period shoes also have the entire label sew into the sole, continued until early Meunier period and it turned to heat stamps
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90s pieces were produced exclusively in Belgium, starting in 2000 some were outsourced to produce in France, Italy, Tunisia and Portugal since. But more detailed pieces are still produced in Belgium.
Im not familiar anything after 2017 so pls dm me on insta if anyone has info
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Additional notes